Slow Magazine | Magnum Photos | Murray Lloyd Photography

Slow,  the food magazine published by the Slow Food Movement from 1998 through to 2007 is the most fabulous magazine I have ever laid my hands on.

It has a most tactile feel (pages are Bioprima Book Paper), the covers (Fabria card from the Miliani Fabriano Mills) are beautifully designed and the use of photography is extraordinary.

Ferdinando Scianna photo on cover of Slow magazine

It is the only time I have seen elephant hunting in colour paired up with black and white photographs of breast-feeding mothers. To top that off the magazine is full of Magnum photography from practitioners as diverse as Henri Cartier Bresson, Chris Steel Perkins and Gueorgui Pinkhassov. If you can track a copy down great – I have been lucky to have loaned a few copies from a friend.

The Elephant hunting story is illustrated with photos by Magnum photographers Martine Franck, Dennis Stock and also by Eugene Richards a past member of Magnum. Issue No. 46 has a funny photograph by Magnum photographer Chein Chi Chang and another amusing photo by Ferdinando Scianna of a bar scene in Miami, Florida. On a more sombre note issue No. 50 has a striking image taken at the Tokyo Fish Market by Bruno Barbey.

The magazine may have ceased but at least the Slow Food Movement is still going.

A Taniwha, a Ghost and the Scream| Murray Lloyd Photography

If you want to get your hands on the real Scream you will have to spend more than 140 Million NZ  Dollars, its last sale price. So here’s to the imperfections of the world, home grown produce, and heritage crops which can be very satisfying at a fraction of the cost.

The Scream

The ghost

The Taniwha

Mischief

Murellen Pork in Canterbury | Murray Lloyd Photography

Following my blog in July celebrating the best ham we and our guests have ever eaten it was a pleasure last week to visit Canterbury’s Murellen Pork, birth place of the 21st Birthday ham.

Expecting the high pitched squeal of pigs on arrival I was surprised not to hear a peep from the grunters. Located in the lee of Mount Torlesse just out of Sheffield, this resplendent piggery sits on 20 acres of mostly glossy green grass.

Murrellen Pork was set up in 1999 by Murray and Helen Battersby (hence the name - Murr-ellen).  After farming pigs in the area for 40 years the couple realised to upsize the operation they could either focus on quantity or quality – and chose the latter. Now managed by son Colin and wife Karen, Murrellen Pork farms around 1500 pigs at any one time. Colin says this number means they can keep the ‘owner operator’ feel of the business.

Like a Wellington team management text, the farming practice is built around reducing stress. Some techniques follow the research of Temple Grandin, famous for her extraordinary knowledge of animal behavior. The entire supply line has been analysed and set up to avoid stressing the animals unnecessarily. For example the pigs are trucked to Timaru for processing via State Highway 50, instead of State Highway 1. This is not for the scenery but because the truck only needs to stop twice on the way. Every stop on a journey arouses the pigs and they get stressed! On the farm round feeders are used instead of straight designs. Pigs have narrow vision and being able to keep an eye on the pigs on each side while eating allows for a more relaxed mealtime and improves nutrition intake. Other measures include PH analysis of the meat and temperature control of the pig enclosures..

While being fattened up at the Murrellen premises the pigs are initially housed in mobile pens (the piglets arrive from a free range supplier) before shifting to a larger facility for the final five weeks. In a similar manner to Joel Salatin mobile chook houses (as described in the book the Omnivores Dilemma these pens are regularly dragged onto a fresh patch of grass with the resulting rich effluent spread to fertilise new grass and enormous worm farms. The pigs are fed a locally produced vegetarian diet which supports the mobile self-fertilising system.

Pigs in pen in New Zealand

The effect of the Canterbury earthquakes on Murrellen has been twofold. Restaurant closures in Christchurch meant a substantial drop off in demand and Murrellen’s office, and the historic house where Colin and Karen live will probably be demolished.

If you are after New Zealand pork, charcuterie or other piggy offcuts, Murrellen’s produce can be sourced via discerning Christchurch and Wellington butchers. They include Ashby’s in Christchurch which won the best bacon award in 2011 with Ashby’s Murrellen dry cured bacon, and Waikanae Butchery who was the Gold Medal Winner (Pork category) in The Great New Zealand Sausage Competition 2009.

Rex Morgan - Meats at the Market | Murray Lloyd Photography

Venison Carpaccio, sirloin steak and lamb pie were all on the menu at Wellington’s city market on Sunday morning. Chef Rex Morgan of Boulcott Bistro presented the "Meat your Maker” class in front of 20 eager participants who paid $50 for the one and a half hour cooking demonstration. Slamming the venison flat with both pot and hammer seemed to alleviate Morgan’s frustration of the early morning wake up due to the introduction of daylight saving.

Rex Morgan

The venison came from Premium Game Meats in Blenheim ( Morgan thinks  "the shooter" might have come from near Picton). After stressing how scale is important to food presentation, Morgan married the venison with a red pepper mayonnaise, micro greens, olive oil and parmigiano reggiano.

Rex Morgan at City Market

Next to hit the gleaming Gaggenau bench top was a large slab of beef sirloin.

Rex Morgan at City Market

Looking to Italy for inspiration, Florentine steak was next item on the menu. Marinated with lemon and herbs for three days, the finished steak arrived juicy, flavoursome and with mouth filling texture. The sirloin was supplied by Silver Fern Farms in Hawkes Bay.

Rex Morgan is one of New Zealand’s Beef and Lamb Platinum Ambassadors, and it was appropriate for the next dish to feature New Zealand’s woolly food hero. Watched by the class and numerous unofficial market goers, Morgan combined an Alain Ducasse styled pastry top with a very tasty and colourful lamb, tomato and pea filling.

Handing out the pies

Lamb pies

Sirloin steak

Venison Carpaccio

The pies baked, and guests sipped on the wine of the day, a 2009 Jackson Estate Vintage Widow Pinot Noir from Marlborough while Morgan assembled his knife sharpening kit. Use of oilstone and steel was demonstrated including the useful tip – replace the steel with the bottom of a ceramic bowl if this tool is absent.

The class ended on a poignant note when one of the guests praised Morgan’s recipes for being ideal for one person – her kids had long left home and her husband had passed away recently - soul food indeed.

Malaysian Night Market at WOAP | Murray Lloyd Photography

Described as the “Jamie Oliver of Malaysian cooking”, Chef Wan was the undoubted star of the inaugural Wellington Malaysia Kitchen Night Market. A household name in Asia , crowds clamoured to hear him speak about and cook traditional Malaysian food. The packed audience included a very excited Lauren King, who was one of the lucky recipients of Chef Wan's demonstration dish Vermicelli Kerabu.

Chef Wan

Customers at the event

Held in one half of the cramped Opera House Lane, the market was the finale of this years Wellington On A Plate. Wan’s excited commentary (see him in action here), broadcast at full volume, contrasted with the slow moving crowds waiting for their fix of Malaysian cuisine.

Malaysia Kitchen Night Market

Working under intense pressure the chefs from Kayu Manis, Rasa, The Long Bar and other Wellington Malaysian restaurants still managed to serve up delicious char grilled satay sticks, curry puffs, rendangs and gorengs ...

Ganesan Duraiswam from Rasa

Rajah Vellasamy from Kayu Manis

Swa Siong from the Long Bar

A happy customer

...the menus however lacked the real diversity I expected of Malaysian street food. This was a probably a reflection on having only a small number of stands to feed the heaving crowds quickly (the event ran for 3 hrs), with easily identified food.

The fundamental aim of Wellington On A Plate is to attract foodie tourists. Air Asia X ‘s arrival to NZ has seen a dramatic increase in Malaysian visitors to NZ (1300 to 5000 monthly in Christchurch) – no doubt coming for the clean green scenery. Likewise, tourism from NZ to Malaysia has increased markedly. I applaud the organisers of the Kitchen Night Market for getting involved with WOAP for the first time, but there is room to put Malaysian street food on a larger stage, with more variety and enthusiastic crowds in the future.

Vegan Pavlova Recipe at WOAP | Murray Lloyd Photography

“The world’s first vegan pavlova!” claimed Professor Kent Kirshenbaum, while giving a presentation at Ruth Pretty’s unscheduled WOAP event. He thought he may have also produced New Zealand’s first vegan meringues, but was surprised to find Angel foods (an Auckland-based vegan supplier) had beat him to it. Kirshenbaum, a New Yorker, was in New Zealand to help celebrate the 2011 Year of Chemistry.

Kitchen Chemistry

Luxuriating in the space the commercial kitchen provided, Kirshenbaum and his assistant Anne McBride took us on a world tour of mysterious ingredients. First was the Chilean Quillaja Saponaria- its soapy properties can be used to make extra head on low alcohol beer, fire fighting foam and of course the vegan meringues. The inner bark of this tree has also been linked to methane reduction in dairy cows and lowering of cholesterol in humans.

Kitchen Chemistry

After being served an unusual warm syrupy drink by Ruth Pretty, the Professor introduced us to Salepli Dondurma the Anatolian stretchy ice cream. The stretch ingredient in the ice cream is called salep and is derived from rare Turkish orchids – so rare the Turkish authorities have banned the export of this plant extract. I found out my syrupy drink was made with salep – apparently sourced in Wellington!

Kitchen Chemistry

Not deterred by the unavailability of salep Kirshenbaum and McBride zapped us up a topping for the meringues using versawhip, xanthan gum, sugar and raspberry sauce. Xanthan gum also has links with our dairy industry as it can be derived from whey, the by-product of cheese making. We got to eat the raspberry-topped meringues (recipe is below) – the dessert had good texture but the herbaceous taste of the meringue had me thinking I’ll stick to egg whites.

Kitchen Chemistry

The Professor had clearly done his research on New Zealand, with his next topic being the barbecue. Obsessed with the smoky flavours of the BBQ, but unable to use one at his apartment (“I’d be arrested in New York if I started one”), Kirshenbaum was drawn to analyse liquid smoke. He deduced it is probably safer to use than untreated-wood smoke due to the carcinogens being removed. Could this be the end of this bastion of New Zealand culture?

The perfect steak? The exact time for a fillet of salmon? Precise times for cooking an egg? Try out sous vide cooking (precise temperature control). How about reductions without heat, centrifuges and rotovaps - it all sounds like science fiction but science in the kitchen is already nearby - think Martin Bosley, Ferren Adria, and Hesten Blumenthal. For more about molecular gastronomy check the Experimental kitchen collective headed up by the very engaging Professor Kent Kirshenbaum.

Recipe for vegan meringues

• Mix 60ml water with 3ml quillaja saponaria

• Add 5ml lemon juice and 15ml Campari

• Beat to form soft peaks, then add 65g granulated sugar one spoonful at a time until stiff peaks form. Sift in 40g confectioners’ sugar and quickly beat to disperse.

• Spoon meringue on to baking sheet lined with parchment paper

• Bake at 225F for 1 hour, then turn oven off and let meringues cool for 1.5hrs.

Heavenly ham and salmon | Murray Lloyd Photography

Ham and salmon were the stars on the menu at a recent 21st party we catered. A ham from Waikanae Butchery was ordered - the pork came from Murrellen Pork in Canterbury. It was cured for three days and given a hint of wood smoke before being glazed. Picked up on the morning of the party, all it needed was half an hour in the oven.

The salmon was purchased from Moore Wilson's in Wellington. It was marinated with star anise, ginger, soy sauce and sesame oil for 4 hrs before being baked in tinfoil for an hour (it was 3.5kgs). The only advice I have is make sure you have a large platter to serve the fish.

Washed down with 1990 Te Mata Awatea (21yrs old) the ham and salmon were highly praised  including the response "eating this salmon is like being in Heaven". The two dishes easily fed the 45 guests (with salads and spuds). I absolutely recommend the Waikanae Butchery for any meat, and this is the recipe for the salmon by Ruth Pretty.

Soy, star anise and ginger whole baked salmon for Ruth Pretty cookbook